Welcome aboard! As the Western Flyer charts her way through the Gulf of California, the crew has been sending photos and updates from the wheelhouse, the deck, and sometimes knee-deep in repairs. These are real dispatches—sent from sea to shore (Note: Newest posts appear at the top.)
You can also follow our Board President, Tom Keffer’s Blog from the Sea of Cortez for behind-the-scenes stories, photos, and reflections from aboard the Flyer. And, of course, don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and Facebook for more photos and updates, and track the Flyer‘s location in real time!
Tuesday, June 24 – Day 100!
17:00 – After 100 days at sea, the Western Flyer returned to Moss Landing Harbor tonight, greeted by familiar faces, hot pizza, and cold Carta Blanca. A whale surfaced just as the Flyer was entering the harbor — a fitting welcome home.
From Monterey to Santa Rosalía, through calms and rough seas, plankton tows and schoolkids, this voyage rewrote a chapter in the Flyer’s long and storied history.
To everyone who dreamed it, sailed it, and supported it — thank you. We’ll be telling these stories for a long time to come.
08:18 — The Western Flyer and crew are cruising past Big Sur this morning, heading home after an extraordinary journey. We expect them back in Moss Landing by early evening.
It feels fitting that today marks exactly 100 days since we left Monterey with the big send-off. Steinbeck and Ricketts might appreciate the timing — a neat bookend to a voyage that retraced their steps and added a few new chapters of its own.
Monday, June 23 – Heading Home!
20:40 – The crew successfully rounded the notorious Point Conception, dubbed by sailors as “The Cape Horn of the Pacific.” Next stop: Moss Landing!
From Captain Paul
18:01 – I just finished some paperwork in the cabin. Everything flying around including me and our little shell turtle sliding around on the desktop like a hockey puck on ice. Steinbeck would have something interesting to say about this, but I can’t come up with a thing!
Lots of water coming over the bow and running out the scuppers just as he described. I liked how the sea water cascaded over them going to weather while they were on the flying bridge. It came to mind this afternoon when I received a bucket full of chilly seawater in the face while leaning into the wind over the console 🌊😁
17:54 – It’s getting ugly now. 25 gusting 35. Way above forecast.
From Mike
17:52 – Currently it’s very…scenic…skyyyyyyy-starfish….skyyyyy-starfish.
This old girl pops wheelies in a definite roller coaster experience.
It’s not nearly as fun as it sounds
[Where are you on the boat now?] I’m in the galley. I made chicken vegetable soup for lunch and currently I’m making a big pot of chili. One of the few benefits of the sea state is that this shit stirs itself on the stovetop.
[Do you get sea sick?] Nah, I don’t get sea sick. I just argue with the waves.
From Captain Paul
17:16 – We’re off to a pretty good start making good time into 20-25 knot headwind. Seas are getting up now as we close on Conception, but it will improve later tonight above the capes. Feeling optimistic about our passage time. Will let you know about ETA first thing in the morning.
08:42 – Hi Sherry, We are doing pre-departure tasks this morning and will leave after a stop for fuel and checking out (by noon). Andrea has been studying the sea conditions off Point Conception, which are still mixed and unruly until later tonight (She has a lot of experience with that notoriously bad water). That will fit the late Tuesday window for our arrival.
Sunday, June 23
From Captain Paul
09:44 – The window still looks good for departure tomorrow. We will take fuel in the morning and approach Point Conception during the night as things settle down and have a clear shot into Monterey Bay. I can give you an ETA into Moss Landing Tuesday morning.
One of the best things about this harbor is that the boat stays clean once you get her cleaned up. No dust, smog, agricultural or industrial air pollutants around.
Tuesday, June 17 – Channel Islands Harbor
From Captain Paul
15:44 – This is the NOAA forecast for the first section of coast outside Santa Barbara Channel we need to transit.
We’re all busy today cleaning up yesterday’s underway disarray and starting on return to Moss stand down tasks. Pretty boring, but gets us ahead for the next phase. I’m working up a list of maintenance work, engine room, etc.
Andrea on her third run to the laundromat with linens for long-term storage—the laundromat is about a mile away. There’s no keeping the Capitana down, she loves to walk anywhere!
08:23 – Arrived in Channel Islands Harbor at 8 last evening. Pretty good ride until mid-afternoon when we ran into a gale, unforeseen by weather service, Coast Guard made an emergency announcement just before it hit. Seas steep 8-9 ft, just about the limit the Flyer can handle in her light condition. Fortunately, the Channel Islands’ fine Harbor Patrol staff found a spot for us. Making our third move this morning to a slip we may be able to keep for a few days if necessary.
We will get into cleanup, organizing, and repairs today. Andrea has a lot of linens to wash and the facilities here are handy and good.
As I have heard, this is a very accommodating and well-run harbor. Certainly seems so. We will move to the spot behind the tug from the pump-out float we’re on now. That spot opened up because a big catamaran lying there gave up on sailing north to Monterey and is going south to home.
Saturday, June 7 to Sunday, June 15, 2025
From Sherry
After wrapping up the Gulf expedition, the crew spent a few more days in San Diego, hosted once again by the generous team at the San Diego Maritime Museum. While there, we returned a very special item: an original edition of The Log from the Sea of Cortez that the Museum had entrusted to us at the start of the voyage. It traveled with us to every port and every stop in the Gulf, signed by the crew and team along the way, and now has a permanent home in the Museum’s collection!
On June 10, we headed north to the Balboa Yacht Club in Newport Beach, where we were hosted for nearly a week as part of the Newport Beach Wooden Boat Festival.
While in Newport, we teamed up with scientists from Kerckhoff Marine Lab — one of the oldest marine labs on the West Coast with historic ties to Ed Ricketts — for a full research day at Lasuen Knoll. Working together, we used a mix of instruments: our own plus Caltech’s GAIA water sampler, a Digital Holographic Microscope, methane flux samplers, and more. It was a great test of the Flyer’s growing research capabilities and a fun start to what we hope will be an ongoing partnership.
The next evening, Kerckhoff hosted us for their Science & Sunset lecture series, where I shared the Western Flyer story, John Magyar presented the Lab’s work and our research from the day before, and John Gregg joined us for Q&A.
Then came the big event: the Wooden Boat Festival, where the Western Flyer was the featured boat! The Balboa Yacht Club and festival organizers pulled out all the stops — with a Captain’s luncheon, private tours, a formal gala, and then a full day open to the public. Parked alongside John Wayne’s Wild Goose and other wooden classics, the Flyer stood out as the only working vessel in the lineup.
I gave the keynote to a packed tent, and at one point, a guest was visibly moved—brought to tears after meeting John Gregg. The Log from the Sea of Cortez had changed his life, and he was overwhelmed with gratitude. Moments like this happen more often than you’d think and remind us why this work matters!
Over the course of the day, about 2,500 people came through the festival—most of them stepping aboard the Western Flyer and hearing its remarkable story firsthand. You can read this LA Times article about the festival for more info.
The photo below captures us with John’s family at the end of the festival, which also marked the final day of programs for the entire three-month expedition!
Friday, June 6 – San Diego
The Western Flyer is tied up at the Maritime Museum for a few days, getting a little TLC after a long voyage. Captain Paul sent a few photos today of the crew in action.
From Captain Paul
Here is Andrea prepping for varnish.
Phil touching up the deckhouse sides with white enamel.
Jenni in her office.
Thursday, June 5 – San Diego
From Mike
13:45 – The Maritime Museum folks continue to make us feel so amazingly welcome. They graciously offered us a tour of San Diego Bay on their 1914 Pilot Boat today.
Tuesday, June 3 – Return to San Diego!
From Captain Paul
15:33 – We’re Here!
0100 – Good morning, I write this at 0100 in the darkness of my mid watch. The lights of Ensenada slide by to the starboard as if to welcome the Flyer’s return once more from Baja. Along with two readings of Chapter 29 and some digression into the meaning of it all — I feel that you have a sense of what John Steinbeck was thinking as he penned it.
Monday, June 2 – In Transit
From Mike
10:55 – There are FOUR doves onboard. 3 on the stay, one on the crows nest.
I think they’ve been up there all along. We passed a cruise ship early this morning, our guess is we adopted em then.
07:40 – 40 miles offshore and this guy shows up
Sunday, June 1 – In Transit to San Diego
From Captain Paul
17:36 – We just passed a pod of Blue Whales 18 miles SW of Cedros Island.
13:21 – Phil communes with the Flyer’s deck sea turtle while securing the spare anchor.
From Mike
10:32 – Paul on the stern “fishing”, Andréa in her “office”. Everyone finally catching up on getting some rest.
From Captain Paul
09:48 – Lines out on the hunt for big fish this morning 🦈
From Phil
08:09 – Cruising along, just fine. Cloudy and about 63° this morning.
Saturday, May 31 – In transit to San Diego
From Captain Paul
16:53 – Quality artisanal foods enjoyed aboard the Western Flyer from in house Foundation source: Left to right, honey from WFF Board member Linda Powell-McMillan’s Flying M Farm and next the smooth Extra Virgin Olive Oil pressed from her olive orchard. To the right are Foundation Founder John Gregg’s “Ranchita Hot Sauce” expertly blended with fermented peppers, and “Good Morning Honey” from Italian Bees of his ranchita 🌶️
14:19 – Hi Sherry, thirty hours into our return from Baja leg, Flyer is making her cruising speed shouldering into the NW swell. Conditions ahead should remain favorable for arrival at our entry point at San Diego by the middle of next week.
We have 240 miles under the keel since departure from San Jose del Cabo cruising well offshore NW of Petrel Bank. Jenni reported sighting Humpback Whales and soaring Shearwaters about while leaving her watch.
Jenni on her morning wheelhouse watch . . .
And keeping the vessel log entries up to the moment.
Off watch, but never off duty and always alert, our glamorous Capitana finds a moment to check in with her Hollywood agent!
Mike retrieves stores from below deck . . .
And tends his galley and music emporium while preparing lunch.
Taking a break, Phil and Jenni enjoy a high stakes penny a point cribbage game 💰
Friday, May 30 – Heading Home!
From Captain Paul
0854 – Good morning, we departed San Jose del Cabo at 0830. Crew: Andrea, Mike, Phil, Jenni and me. Good outlook for sailing; light S winds out here off shore with a long low swell from the tropical depression south of us.
From Sherry
Yesterday I said goodbye to the crew after an amazing final week in the Gulf of California. Today, the Western Flyer began the long journey home. I’m feeling it all — pride, gratitude, relief, nostalgia, and excitement for what’s ahead.
When I started this job three years ago, this was just an idea — a vision that John Gregg and our Board first set in motion. Now it’s done — a completed chapter in the Western Flyer’s story, and part of its history. And it happened not because of any one person, but because of the many people, communities, and organizations – on both sides of the border – who came together to make it happen.
In many ways, this trip became its own microcosm – as Steinbeck and Ricketts described – with many small parts coming together to create something far greater than the sum of its parts. But while this chapter comes to a close, it feels like it’s just the beginning. So many more people now feel a sense of ownership and connection to this story, and new partnerships and friendships have formed that will carry forward as we plan for what’s next. What started as a plan to return to the Sea of Cortez has grown into something much bigger. We did it.
Thurday, May 29 – San José del Cabo
From Rials
Early this morning, the crew joined partners from Organización para la Sustentabilidad to observe the first Least Tern hatchings of the season. Rials spotted the first chick and named it John, followed shortly by its sibling, Ed!
From Captain Paul
On our final full day in Baja we shared fond farewells with the likes of irreplaceable Aracely and incomparable BCI collaborators Paulina, Mariana and their support staff.
Then, fresh in from the blue sea, an unexpected reunion with shipmate and visiting scientist Adrian Munguia Vega. He had just returned from two weeks aboard a dive vessel exploring and researching the remote offshore Mexican islands.
Adrian and Andrea share the joy of an unexpected “out of the blue sea” reunion!
Wednesday, May 28 – San José del Cabo
From Sherry
Today was full-on from start to finish.
At 9:00 AM, we welcomed local City Councilmembers and officials onboard to share the story of the Western Flyer and to tour the vessel.
At 10:30 AM, BCI organized a group of twenty community members for another round of tours.
At 11:30 AM, we were joined by Alberto Gonzalez and his students. Alberto is a professor at the Instituto Tecnológico de Estudios Superiores de Los Cabos (ITES Los Cabos), who has been teaching The Pearl and Of Mice and Men, and now plans to introduce The Log from the Sea of Cortez to his classes. They presented us with beautiful student artwork inspired by The Pearl and Of Mice and Men — a wonderful gift.
We were then excited to welcome Ron Provost—one of our incredible docents who is also a teacher at Stevenson School in Pebble Beach—along with Ecology Project International and Ron’s students for a tour of the Flyer. Ron actually helped us develop our docent guide, so it was great that the timing worked out.
In the afternoon, BCI organized a final research cruise with local NGO partners — community members who have been working hard to slow the rapid development in Cabo and protect sea turtles, wetlands, seabirds, and more. Dolphins joined us as we cruised — perfect and magical.
Afterwards, they hosted us for a beautiful evening of dinner and flamenco dancing at Hotel el Ganzo (a great hotel full of original art). A truly unforgettable day, and a perfect ending to our expedition through the Gulf.
Tuesday, May 27 – San José del Cabo
From Sherry
0800 and it’s already 82°F (27.7°C)! It’s going to be a toasty day.
Farewell, Tom! After 47 days aboard, Board President Tom Keffer heads home. From science and teaching to engine, network, and electronics troubleshooting, Tom jumped in wherever he was needed.
We’re also saying farewell to Rich Foote, who’s been with us for the past 2½ weeks tackling critical repairs, maintenance, engineering projects—and pretty much anything on the boat that needed some extra love.
Monday, May 26 – San José del Cabo
From Sherry
Today we ran a cruise out of San José del Cabo with a group of schoolteachers from communities across the region—some drove more than two hours to reach the Western Flyer this morning! The visit was organized by our partners at Baja Coastal Institute (BCI), and for most of the teachers, this was their first time hearing the story of the Flyer—or even of John Steinbeck, and for some, their first time on a boat!
Aracely, our Outreach Coordinator, and Paulina from BCI led tours of the vessel, while Jenni and Rials managed the science collecting.
We collected plankton samples near the harbor and farther offshore to compare the differences, cruised in electric mode for a while, and looked for Gordos Bank with our echosounder before deploying the ROV to explore it. Gordo Bank was one of the most vibrant ecosystems that we’ve explored with the ROV to date.
We spotted humpback whales, a sea lion, four turtles, sharks, and flying marlin, sailfish, and skipjack! Not a bad day on the water.
Sunday, May 25 – Cabo Pulmo to San José del Cabo
From Rials
Doll dressed in the traditional clothes of Michoacán, given to us to protect the crew and liven up the lab on long research cruises (we put her on the model of the Western Flyer given to us by the community of Santa Rosalía).
Saturday, May 24 – Cabo Pulmo
From Sherry
In The Log from the Sea of Cortez, Ricketts and Steinbeck wrote: “We wished for diving equipment, but never more than here… the under-cut shoreward side of the reef concealed hazy wonders which we could not get at.”
We made sure not to make the same mistake twice. Today, some of us had the chance to dive and snorkel the reefs of Cabo Pulmo—and it was spectacular. After more than 30 years as a protected national park, the reef is teeming with marine life.
We then delivered presentations in English and Spanish, sharing the story of the Western Flyer, followed by a screening of the film, The Western Flyer with Nick Offerman (now with Spanish subtitles!).
Friday, May 23 – Cabo Pulmo and Los Frailes
From Sherry
I’m so happy to be back in the Gulf of California for our final week of programs! Today, we teamed up with our partners at Baja Coastal Institute to take a group of 12 kids and 8 adults out on the water. From the flying bridge, we spotted a hammerhead shark, flying mobulas, a manta ray, and a turtle!
From Captain Andrea
Thursday, May 22 – In Transit from La Paz to Los Frailes
From Captain Paul
Modern Man, Ancient Art
Western Flyer Board President Tom Keffer practices his skills of marlinspike seamanship while cruising to the next destination. Best known as an Oceanographer, software entrepreneur, investor, and supporter of non-profits, Tom has brought the fruits of his passion for boats and the sea aboard for his long stint aboard the Flyer during her return to Baja expedition.
Using tools of the trade: sail palm, needle and twine Tom seizes the end of a length of line for deck use on the Flyer. Tom has been aboard since April 10 sailing the length of the Gulf of California, with so much time for seldom-idle hands the lines and rigging aboard are all ship shape!
Tom in a pensive moment at the helm as evening gently descends on the the Sea of Cortez.
Tuesday, May 20 – La Paz
From Sherry
A huge thanks to Arturo Ramírez, who wraps up his time aboard the Flyer today. Arturo has been instrumental to this expedition—not just over the past couple of weeks on board, but throughout the past year, helping us navigate Mexico’s complex permit process. Truly, we wouldn’t be here without him.
Onboard, Arturo has been a joy to work with—bringing deep knowledge, a collaborative spirit, and a true educator’s heart. He jumped in wherever needed, always with a smile on his face, and we’re really going to miss him. Arturo is a marine conservation biologist and research associate at Fauna del Noroeste—learn more about his background here.
Monday, May 19 – La Paz
From Sherry
It’s officially Day 66 since we left the dock in Moss Landing, and I want to take a moment to give a shoutout to the incredible Western Flyer crew. This team has been nonstop—and I mean nonstop. Just take a look at this week:
- Saturday, May 17 – 9-hour transit from San Evaristo to La Paz
- Sunday, May 18 – Morning research with Baja Coastal Institute (BCI), then public tours in the afternoon
- Monday, May 19 – Boat tour with Niparajá and student research at El Mogote
- Tuesday, May 20 – Research cruise with teachers and BCI
- Wednesday, May 21 – Dockside education programs, morning and afternoon
- Thursday, May 22 – 11-hour transit to Los Frailes—collecting data along the way
- Friday, May 23 – Morning research cruise out of Los Frailes; evening community event in Cabo Pulmo
- Saturday, May 24 – A little morning downtime, then another community event in Cabo Pulmo
- Sunday, May 25 – 7-hour transit to San José del Cabo
- Monday, May 26 – At-sea research cruise with teachers
- Tuesday, May 27 – Dockside education programs, morning and afternoon
- Wednesday, May 28 – Boat tours all day + evening research cruise with NGO partners
- … and then: provisioning and prepping the boat for the long and windy journey back to California!
And in between all that? The crew has been setting up, breaking down, handling maintenance, solving problems, cooking, cleaning, and keeping everything running—while also navigating the constant ebb and flow of new crew members, guest scientists, photographers, filmmakers, and visitors. And all this happening in their home for three months – not a lot of privacy. Rest has been… minimal at best.
And yet—through long days, inevitable bumps in the road, and the occasional frayed nerve (as Steinbeck and Ricketts put it, “Character was crumbling, and the law of the fang was too close to us”)—this crew keeps showing up with grit and good humor. Fortunately, on this expedition, no pie has gone missing… yet.
Yesterday, Mike messaged me: “I wish we were just getting to the halfway point. I’m nowhere near ready to go home.”
That says it all.
Thank you, team. You’re making history. You’re making magic. And we are all endlessly grateful.
Saturday, May 17 – La Paz
Welcome Aboard, Rials!
Today, our new Education Manager, Rials Christensen, joined the cruise. We’re thrilled to have her on the team and excited for all the adventures ahead here, in Monterey Bay, and beyond!
Sunday, May 18 – La Paz
From Aracely
Friday, May 16 – San Evaristo
We’re now in San Evaristo for a few days leading educational tours, research cruises, and a community event in partnership with our incredible partners at Niparajá.
From Captain Paul
From Arturo
And here are some photos shared by Arturo Ramírez-Valdez, our guest scientist onboard..
Monday, May 12 – Puerto Escondido and Loreto
From Sherry
Today, we ran two dockside education programs with forty high school students, thanks to our partners at Eco-Alianza.
Each group split in two: one half got hands-on with plankton tows, checked out their samples under the microscope with Jenni and Andrea, and learned about our ROV from Arturo Ramírez—a Mexican scientist who is joining us for this leg of the journey. The other half toured the Flyer with me and heard the story behind the boat. None of the students had ever heard about the Western Flyer. When I asked what year they thought it was built, both groups guessed the 1980s!
Favorite moment? One student asked if we’ve ever seen mermaids on the Flyer, which kicked off a fun conversation about mythology, sea monsters, and The Old Man of the Sea. That’s what it’s all about!
After a full day of programs, we headed into Loreto for a community event at Eco-Alianza’s headquarters to celebrate the Western Flyer’s return.
We arrived to find 86 elementary students coloring in our Western Flyer coloring books and playing in a miniature cardboard Flyer—built by the amazing Eco-Alianza team. Afterward, community members gathered for a screening of the film Journey to the Sea of Cortez.
It was the perfect way to wrap up a week of fun and collaboration with Eco-Alianza. Next stop: San Evaristo!
Sunday, May 11 – Puerto Escondido
From Sherry
Today was one of my favorite days of the expedition so far!
If you remember Chapter 16 of The Log from the Sea of Cortez, Steinbeck and Ricketts were invited on a borrego hunt (for big-horn sheep) by a few locals in Puerto Escondido. The chapter is full of complaining mules, dry hills, and stories that nearly always began, “Once there was a school-teacher with large black eyes… muy simpática.’”
One of those men was Leopoldo Pérpuli, who owned a ranch on the edge of Puerto Escondido.
Today, we had the incredible honor of welcoming Leopoldo’s four children and granddaughter aboard—José, Fidencio, María, Rosa, and Avali. They grew up hearing these stories firsthand and told us how their father spoke about meeting Steinbeck and Ricketts—and how it was Ricketts who left the deepest impression.
Naturally, the moment called for a shot of rum—shared between Fidencio and Captain Paul in the galley. And the glass? A barnacle-scarred relic discovered tucked in a window frame in the galley. It dates to the 1930s and was most certainly used by the 1940 crew, and possibly even Leopoldo himself.
A big thanks to Trudi Angell for arranging the visit!
Saturday, May 10 – Puerto Escondido
From Sherry
Today’s adventure was full of curious students, sunny skies, mysterious wrecks, and a lot of plankton. We were joined by nine students from Universidad Autónoma de Baja California—UABCS (pronounced “WOBS,” which I love saying), plus five staff and board members from our partners at Eco-Alianza, and two filmmakers capturing the magic.
We kicked things off hunting for a sunken wreck. No treasure today, but the ocean kept us busy. We launched our ROV to cruise around the reef, did some plankton tows, played with refractometers to check salinity levels, and scanned the horizon for whales and other sea creatures (and spotted a mobula ray).
Friday, May 9 – Puerto Escondido
From Sherry
“A place of magic,” wrote Steinbeck and Ricketts when they first entered Puerto Escondido. “If one wished to design a secret personal bay, one would probably build something very like this little harbor.”
It may not be such a secret these days, with shiny yachts lining the docks beside the Flyer, but the magic remains with dramatic mountains, calm turquoise waters, and amazing marine life.
Today, we explored the waters around Loreto with our partners at Eco-Alianza—deploying our ROV and collecting plankton samples. This evening, Eco-Alianza hosted a warm celebration to welcome the Western Flyer back to the Gulf of California, where we gave tours to about 80 of their supporters. You can learn more about their programs here: https://ecoalianzaloreto.org/our-programs/.
We’re excited to take students out with the Eco-Alianza team tomorrow and Monday and to join their community event on Monday evening.
Saturday, May 3 – Santa Rosaliá
From Captain Paul
09:00 – Best boarding scenario- we should do more gigs here!
From Captain Paul
08:38 – Hi, I got a bit of amplification from Gilly this morning, as he and Unai were at the shore as the boats returned late evening: . . . the fleet of 120 pangas set out for the harvest . . . . according to Dr. Gilly, who is revered on this coast as the forward thinking squid guru always optimistic about return of strong stocks. He added “the squid are large and appear to be growing under favorable conditions.”
Friday, May 2 – San Lucas and Santa Rosaliá
From Captain Paul
11:12 – Today began early as our Professors Unai, Tom and Gilly, set out for the San Lucas shore in the small boat with Jenni and Maddie to meet up with 9 students and their teachers. They searched under rocks and crevasses in the intertidal zone, identifying the creatures living there and noting how they relate to their environment. It was an exciting revelation to some of the students that something they had long taken for granted as just a beach could be so fascinating. Our crew returned about noon after being treated to Manta Ray tacos (p.s. later they admitted the tacos were of a Ray type, not necessarily Manta!)
In the afternoon, we pulled anchor and sailed to our study zone north of Isla San Marcos for two 500-meter CTD casts again in the midst of dense pods of Dolphins thrashing over the water like wild horses on a watery plain. At 5:00 pm we made our scheduled arrival at the Santa Rosalia pier and settled in—the harbor placid in comparison to our previous visit in company with the Safari Voyager for the welcoming celebration. Towards dusk, the fleet of a hundred or so pangas set out for a night of squid fishing. The fleet is enjoying profitable times catching larger squid than they have in decades, according to Unai; a phenomenon of water temperature that runs in response to La Niña, according to Gilly. Whatever the cause, it is heartwarming to witness!
Thursday, May 1 – Underway near Isla San Marcos
Read Tom Keffer’s blog Exploring San Marcos for more details on the research we’ve been up to!
From Mike
13:19 – The Dolphins decided to join us for lunch. Bummer we didn’t have enough sammiches to go ‘round.
Wednesday, May 2 – In Transit
From Mike
15:44 – Original size on right, results of 450 meters on a CTD cast on left. Cue “Under Pressure” by Queen….
[p.s. We definitely don’t endorse styrofoam—but when rogue cups come our way, we like to give them a second life as science props on CTD casts.]
Tuesday, April 29 – Transit to San Lucas
From Captain Paul
19:30 – After finishing an offshore oceanographic cast we are rounding the island to anchor at Caleta San Lucas. We have been traveling since our 0500 departure from Agua Verde and just rounded out the day with full portions of spaghetti and meatballs while headed inshore to a quiet anchorage. In the morning our scientists (Gilly, Tom and Unai) will be searching for octopus activity feeding on clams and a seamount will be investigated later.
Monday, April 28 – Agua Verde
From Mike
12:28 – The kids had a blast. Cookies and mango juice made me a hero.
09:16 – Quiet morning, fresh fruit salad with oats and breakfast tacos, most crew ate on deck. A sea turtle and a small ray cruised by as we ate.
From Captain Paul
07:40 – Good morning! The people of Agua Verde are so welcoming and pleasant to interact with. Obviously happily self-sufficient in their village on the margin of the sea, no fancy harbor or dock facilities, just man-handle their pangas into the surf; Steinbeck would have appreciated how that determination endured. Late last evening it took a heroic struggle for Aracely, a small boy and his dad to move our crew off the beach through surf and out to the anchored Flyer, looking like she had been waiting for us on the dark waters of the harbor for 85 years.
Read Tom Keffer’s Blog about Agua Verde.
Sunday, April 27, 2025 – Agua Verde
From Mike
09:15 – It was a bit of a sleepless turnaround in La Paz, but fortunately I got to bed at 2300 last night, so sleep definitely helped! We’re anchored up with Agua Verde. Folks onboard. The little kids are suuuuper excited about the boat. We let one run the controls pulling the ⚓️.
Saturday, April 26 – La Paz to Agua Verde
From Captain Paul
17:07 – Woo Hoo !!! We just caught a fish. This will be good in the pasta as Sparky would have done.
16:39 – It is a beautiful day up here 🌞after a windy night and morning! We should be anchored by twilight and looking forward to an interesting day tomorrow. It was a restless night for most everyone. Wind banging the boat around at the dock and everyone in and out of the engine room trying to keep the fresh water flowing for the potty as our supply ran dry.
Don’t think most caught up on sleep last night, especially Andrea and Mike doing laundry through the night. The day was disjointed and everyone kind of sleep walking. There is no real restoration other than a full night’s sleep and that will be tonight. The water is so beautiful out here I wish you could see it! We have a fishing line out, but doing our thing for conservation by not catching anything.
Wednesday, April 15-25 – Traveling on the Safari Voyager
From Sherry Flumerfelt
It’s been a little quiet here on the Crew’s Log, largely because I’ve been the one receiving the texts and posting the updates… but for the past couple of weeks, I’ve been with them (and with limited wifi).
One leg of this three-month journey was a special fundraising trip to support our community outreach, education, and research programs during this journey and beyond. We partnered with UnCruise Adventures aboard their Safari Voyager, along with an incredible community of supporters, for ten unforgettable nights shadowing the Western Flyer — and WOW, it was amazing.
Every morning, we woke up to the sight of the Western Flyer against the most stunning backdrops you can imagine. We traveled to Punta San Marcial, San Lucas Cove, Punta Trinidad, Bahía San Carlos, Punta Gringa, Bahía de los Ángeles, Puerto Refugio at Isla Ángel de la Guarda, Isla San Esteban, Santa Rosalía (where the community gave us the most incredible welcome), Los Islotes, Agua Verde, Amortajada Bay, the Cayo Islands, and more.
The guests aboard the Safari Voyager were an amazing mix of curious, creative, and adventurous folks. We had John (Jack) Muir Laws leading nature journaling sessions, Steinbeck scholar Susan Shillinglaw giving daily book readings, Dr. William Gilly leading tidepool explorations, and so many more experts onboard. There were evening lectures, games, skiff tours, kayaking, snorkeling with sea lions, burro rides, hikes, and plenty of laughter along the way. We ate delicious food, drank incredible cocktails, and participated in research on the Western Flyer with Dr. Adrian Munguía-Vega and Dr. Jack Barth. The crew and guides on the Safari Voyager were just about the warmest, smartest, and most professional people you’ll ever meet!
But more than anything, we built an incredible community — a true Western Flyer family. I feel fortunate to know each of them and am grateful for their generous support. Here’s hoping for another adventure soon! A few photos below…
You can also read Tom Keffer’s post about the Safari Voyager trip in his “Blog from the Sea of Cortez.”
Sunday, April 20, 2025 – Happy Easter from Puerto Refugio and Isla Angel de la Guardia!
We’ve been incredibly fortunate to have Pat Webster aboard as our resident photographer and storyteller for this leg of the journey. If you’ve been following along on Facebook and Instagram, you’ve likely seen his stunning photos and great posts. If you’re not already following Pat on Instagram, we highly recommend it! You can find him at @underwaterpat.
From Jenni
14:18 – We pulled anchor at midnight and started heading to our next stop. Around 1 am, just as we were getting ready to sample, we saw bioluminescent dolphins riding the bow wake—like, full glow-in-the-dark magic. We stopped everything and just watched for a bit… then remembered, oh right, science! 😅
We deployed the Niskin bottle and CTD, cleaned everything up, and somehow, even an hour and a half later, we were still in the same spot. So we went back up to the bow—and the dolphins were still there. At least 15–20 at a time, chasing schools of fish lit up by the bioluminescence. It even seemed like they were waiting for us to speed up again so they could corral the fish alongside us. Birds were diving all around too, joining the frenzy.
It was incredible to see how hydrodynamic the dolphins are—barely any bubbles, just slicing through the water, weaving in and out of each other at 10 knots like it was nothing.
Honestly, it was just magical. Clear skies, a blood moon rising around 2am, stars everywhere, the Safari Voyager in the distance… I grabbed my sleeping bag so we could stay out longer. We didn’t go to bed until the last dolphin disappeared. Just one of those nights.
Friday, April 18, 2025 – Punta Trinidad and Bahia San Carlos
From Paul
21:26 – Last evening we departed Caleta San Lucas late, making a CTD cast in deeper waters on the way out. Most of the night, the wind was brisk, blowing from the west off the Peninsula, and by 5:00 am, it was gusting to 40 knots. With those conditions, we made the decision to drop 2 offshore oceanographic stations and follow the Safari Voyager inshore, where our activities for the day were to focus around Punta Trinidad. While the SVO crew made ready to take their guests in for beach explorations we cruised the shallow shelf north of the point.
The dry wind was sweeping offshore from over a nearly barren landscape and stirring the productive inshore waters where countless birds and one Humpback Whale were feasting on dense schools of bait fish. Interestingly, among the many birds were hundreds of Pacific and Common Loons. Others in on the feast were the usual suspects: Pelicans, Masked Boobies, Laughing and Hermann’s Gulls and Caspian and Elegant Terns.
After completing two inshore oceanographic casts we anchored in company with the SVO just south of Punta Trinidad. We entertained enthusiastic SVO crew members aboard for a tour and visit early afternoon and later Jack, Adrian, Tom and Jenni gave lessons in Oceanography and research tools to very attentive cruise guests on deck and in the lab below. Late in the afternoon, Patrick went ashore with his camera, finding piles of old Pearl Oyster shells and one surprised and curious Jack Rabbit! As the sun dipped below the jagged ridge line of Baja we devoured a hearty dinner of Mike’s fine fare in the galley, then weighed anchor and pointed our bow toward Polaris northbound up the Gulf.
07:20 – Watching Humpbacks on big bait schools up here 🐋. Photo by Pat Webster.
Thursday, April 17 – near Bahía Concepción
Wednesday, April 16 – On the way to Punta Marcial
From Captain Paul
A very beautiful morning here! Arrived at our first station at 0600 for Adrian’s water sample. Sea calm and deep blue with a gentle depth gradient below. While landward, the Peninsula is stark, jumbled, and deeply eroded, showing brightly colored sedimentary layers on the eroded bluffs. Nary a flat spot anywhere, looking wild and impenetrable!
Tuesday, April 15, 2025 – La Paz
Monday, April 14 – La Paz
Today, our funders and partners at Innovaciones Alumbra came by to tour the Flyer, followed by a delicious sustainable seafood lunch at Toto Frito – great people doing important and innovative work!
Later in the evening, we met with some of the guests of the Safari Voyager for a drink and a beautiful sunset. Leg two starts tomorrow, as the Western Flyer travels into the Gulf for the first time in 85 years!!
Sunday, April 13 – La Paz
From Sherry
Check out this Instagram reel capturing videos of the day, created by Pat Webster of @underwaterpat.
From Mike
Photo of the Flyer during the La Paz celebration, April 13, 2025. By Mike Bianchi.
Photo of the ribbon cutting ceremony during the La Paz Inaugural Celebration, April 13, 2025. Photo by Mike Bianchi.
Thursday, April 10 – La Paz
From Jenni
19:32 – Crew spent the day catching up on some maintenance tasks and preparing for another busy week. We all took a break to have dinner and drinks at Claro Fosh Jr.
From Phil Sconce, Mate
17:37 – It’s beautiful here; all the people are friendly, and the food is amazing.
There was an awesome mariachi band playing until the wee hours of the morning, on a Wednesday. These people know how to throw down.
Wednesday, April 9, 2025 – Espíritu Santo to La Paz
From Jenni
07:08 – Morning coffee and a sunrise anchor pull.
Monday, April 7, 2025 – Transit from Ensenada to Espíritu Santo
From Captain Paul
12:58 – It’s still pretty rough going. No one is getting much sleep, just tucking in someplace snug if they can find one. Pretty tough down in the forepeak. Everybody’s holding up well.
It could be worse. Capt. Tim on the Safari Voyager wrote this morning that they departed La Paz yesterday and got beat up last night in 40 knot winds and took refuge in Isla Carmen.
07:57 – Last night John called us on approach to the Cape with congratulations. How typically gracious of him to do that and moreover to share in the moment the fruits of his steadfast commitment to the Western Flyer.
We are slowly slogging it out today upwind to our anchorage arriving by evening at best. Looks like some moderation in the next couple of days. Meanwhile La Paz harbor is closed to vessels under 500 tons in such winds.
From Mike
16:50 – We lost 3 WF coffee mugs in the rough seas. If there’s any way a few could find their way down here, it’d help.
Sunday, April 6, 2025 – Transit from Ensenada to La Paz
From Captain Paul
23:23 – Slow writing tonight; we are running slowly north into 25 knot winds and sea. Capt. Andrea has picked out an anchorage for us in the morning to get the boat in order.
23:06 – It was glorious entering the GOC! We came in from offshore in the afternoon running with a westerly wind and sea, first sighting the Cape from 25 miles out in brilliantly clear conditions. We passed under False Cape light at 4:00 pm and shortly after past the nautical congestion of Cabo San Lucas, a massive cruise ship tucked into the entrance, several large charter yachts anchored in close as well. But then swinging up the coast were greeted by breaching Humpback Whales. The evening light colored the successive ridges of the peninsula in pastel colors fading to purple with the bright twilight sky behind. We had truly arrived in the Sea of Cortez!
08:49 – Thinking a lot now as we approach the Cape of the 1940 crew. As always, I feel their presence in the old bones of this beautiful reconstruction of the boat that served them so well to The Sea of Cortez. Last night in the wheelhouse on my mid-watch several times I perceived a fleeting shadow move by behind me. A restless Carol stirred by her picture on the cabin wall, feeling once more the happiness of that important experience her life?
Thinking of food as I often do wondered what meal times were like – lots of Sparky’s spaghetti? How fortunate we were to leave Monterey with Bob’s wonderful version of the old family recipe to set our taste and temperament for the adventure ahead! Mike is carrying on the tradition with his many tried and true dishes from fishing boats to wilderness river rafting camps. His fish stew is off the charts and will get even better with local fish pulled fresh moments before from the water as in 1940.
Saturday, April 5, 2025
From Captain Paul
09:55 – Another beautiful night out here, the sky filled with sparkling stars. The constellation Orion setting early now as the winter night sky fades to return in the fall. Our bow wake foams brightly glowing in the moonlight as we surf down the NW swells still following us southward. The air warmed to 60 degrees today, inspiring Mike to set up a hammock on the deck. Sleeping under the stars may be on someone’s mind; and Andrea reported spotting our first sea turtle just before dusk! So ends this day – Good night 🌙
Friday, April 4, 2025 – Transit from Ensenada to La Paz
From Captain Paul
20:47 – Looks like we will have the Norwesterly wind and seas most of the way to the Cape. Much better traveling now with the swell on our stern.
From Captain Andrea
16:49 – Sea state has come down in the last few hours. Everyone was able to catch up on some sleep (no one slept yesterday/last night). Too cold and too rough. It was rough enough to slide the galley door open within a minute of closing it. So, the house was cold. Once the sun came back up, the boat warmed and everyone got some rest.
From Captain Paul
12:41 – We are rolling south at a good clip about 40 miles west of Cedros Island and will have about 230 nautical miles under our belt in the first 24 hours. Beautiful night with the crescent moon setting at about 0230 with the sea reflecting diamonds. At about 0500 Andrea was treated to bioluminescent dolphins and Jenni spotted Laysan and Blackfooted Albatross through the morning. Mike served a hearty breakfast before the building NW swells rearranged everything 😬!
From Mike
09:07 – We have Albatross accompanying us this morning. I think they smell the French Toast.
Thursday, April 3, 2025 – Ensenada
From Mike
16:18 – It’s going great. A tad rough seas departing Ensenada but it’s gradually easing down to smooth. Saw my first Mola Mola a few miles back.
From Captain Paul
08:40 – We are making final preparations to depart Ensenada, waiting out a minus tide to sail over the Coral Marina to take fuel. Weather looks good for the entire route. Once offshore, I will catch up with you on our doings in Ensenada and experiences en route. Been a busy time here. Rebecca Zertuche gave the crew a long and very interesting tour of the Museo de Cienas yesterday; we caught up on laundry and other duties in the evening.
As for the sea water intake repair: we received mechanical assistance from an excellent contract mechanic (Miguel) to the shipyard at no charge! Miguel is a truly good man. He refused compensation and was pleased to be of assistance to the Western Flyer!
From Mike
12:18 – John would LOVE the interactive fossil exhibits!
Wednesday, April 2, 2025 – Ensenada
From Captain Andrea
17:06 – That little girl (dog) that Mike watched get thrown in the harbor by the sea lions was such a sweet dog. She was so excited to see her owner when he came to collect her.
Her name is Nina, her owner was super appreciative. We were already planning to name her Sparky… Jenni would have kept her as her furever friend for sure.
From Captain Paul
10:31 – The John Deere raw water system repair has been completed and tested. All set to cruise again for the next 85 years!
From Captain Paul
07:42 – Morning boat ops – Jenni rescues sea lion herding pup after being tossed off the float by one!
Thursday, March 28 to Wednesday, April 2, 2025 – Ensenada
Sunday, March 16 to Thursday, March 28 – Monterey to Ensenada
The Western Flyer’s voyage kicked off with a celebratory send-off in Monterey, followed by a journey down the California coast—stopping in Santa Barbara, Long Beach, Newport Harbor, and San Diego—before crossing into Mexican waters. Whether you’re starting here or circling back, you can dive into the full story in our April 1st Newsletter.
Thanks for following along!
