We’re continuing the Crew’s Log, first started during our return to the Gulf of California—a running mix of updates, photos, and messages shared from the vessel as the Pacific Northwest expedition unfolds. Entries are posted in near real time, with the most recent at the top.
Friday, June 12
Seattle
09:37- Trip Zabriskie – Sailing down Puget Sound from Port Townsend brought back fond memories and has been somewhat of a homecoming for me. I met a woman on the beach in Todos Santos in about 1990 (after delivering a car to Cabo) and subsequently moved to and lived in Seattle for close to twenty years. While that romantic relationship didn’t last long, I instead fell in love with and gave my all to the Center for Wooden Boats and its founders, Dick and Colleen Wagner.
CWB manages the City of Seattle’s Historic Ships Wharf at the South end of Lake Union, which is where the Western Flyer is now docked for a week-long visit. The city is abuzz, and you can feel the energy with all the hoopla around the World Cup (soccer) events beginning this weekend, and South Lake Union is no exception.
On Sunday (6/13) CWB is offering a Free Sailing Day (12:30-8 PM), a free Public Sail (sign-up at 1), and a ticketed dinner event. We will partner with the center and offer open boat tours on the Flyer from 12:30-4:30 on both Saturday and Sunday.
Much has changed here at CWB in the 20 years since my active involvement. However, the warmth, hospitality, and Dick Wagner’s original vision of putting kids (of all ages) in boats to experience life on the water remains at the heart of the Center for Wooden Boats—very much like John Gregg’s vision to have the Western Flyer Foundation provide a way to educate young people on the essence of marine science. Thanks to the board, staff, and volunteers of both organizations for keeping these visionaries’ dreams alive.
Thursday, June 11
Seattle
15:16 – Rials – During the expedition, tired of squinting and looking decidedly less cool than our Marine Tech Jenni, I splurged and bought a nice (read: pricey) pair of polarized sunglasses. They served me well for two weeks, until at the end of a long day of cruises, I was leaning over the side of the Flyer at the Northwest Maritime Center dock, and they slipped out of my shirt pocket. I watched in paralyzed dismay as they fell, pinball-ing between the boat and the dock until they dropped out of sight into the water below. I sadly but resolutely accepted that they belonged to the sea now and spent the following day reacclimating to squinting.
In a similar stroke of bad luck, a local photographer made his own donation to the sea when his beautiful camera tumbled off the dock. Enter Pat Webster—“Underwater Pat” on social media— who takes less urging than a fish to find his way to the water. Pat suited up to see if he could retrieve the camera, and Jenni, while acting as his dive tender, mentioned my flotsam-ed sunglasses. After a luckless search for the camera in 10 feet of water, I thought there was absolutely no chance that my glasses, after a full day lost to the mercy of tides and currents, could ever be found.
Color me surprised when Pat returned to the surface with a valiant whoop, my dark translucent blue sunglasses (I cannot stress how impossible this should have been) in hand. Pat found them sixty feet (!!) below the Flyer, nestled at the bottom of a silty slope between a rock and a large crab.
Thank you Pat, for your eager willingness to help others, your diving prowess, and your keen eyesight. My new accessory now has their own accessory, a pair of croakies.
Wednesday, June 10
Port Townsend to Seattle
The Western Flyer has arrived in Seattle! Thanks to Patrick Webster for sharing these incredible photos.
10:23 – Sherry – The Western Flyer and crew are on their way to Seattle. These photos were sent to us by our new friend, Lynn Schwarz, from her home in Port Hadlock, where Captain Paul and I were welcomed as guests just the other night.
08:40 – Sherry – You may recall that in Chapter 9 of The Log from the Sea of Cortez, Steinbeck and Ricketts encountered a liquor called damiana. As they wrote:
“Chris said it was an aphrodisiac, and told some interesting stories to prove it. We felt a scientific interest in his stories, and bought a bottle of damiana, intending to subject it to certain tests under laboratory conditions. But the customs officials of San Diego took it away from us, not because of its romantic aspect, but because it had alcohol in it. Thus we were never to give it a truly scientific testing. We think we were going to use it on a white rat. Tiny said he didn’t want any such stuff getting in his way when he felt lustful.”
Well, our friend Rob Nightingale (author of this wonderful reflection) managed to get his hands on not one, but two bottles of damiana and generously gifted them to the crew in Port Townsend.
As of this writing, no scientific tests have been conducted aboard the Western Flyer, but we will keep you posted. Thank you, Rob!
Tuesday, June 9
14:00 – Sherry – It’s hard to believe it’s been an entire week since our last post, but if you knew what we’ve been up to, you’d understand! Here is a photo recap of an incredible week in Port Townsend, starting with yesterday, and working backwards in time.
Monday, June 8
Port Townsend
Today, Kaitlyn, Rials, and I flew back to California, leaving the crew on board for one final stop in Seattle at the Center for Wooden Boats (visit us this Saturday and Sunday, June 13-14, between 12:30 and 4:30 PM).
Before leaving Port Townsend, Tim Lee of the Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-Op gave us several special gifts, including this bulwark pattern used during the Western Flyer’s restoration. Unfortunately, I forgot to leave it on the boat, which meant I had to carry it on the plane!
As I went through security in Seattle, one of the TSA agents was carefully examining the pattern and asked, “Is this the same Western Flyer that used to fish in Alaska?” It turns out he had fished in Alaska decades ago, at the same time the Flyer was there!
Then, as I boarded the plane, a flight attendant immediately recognized what I was carrying. When I asked how she knew, she told me she was a sailor and that her former boyfriend attended the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding—the very school where I had spent Saturday night celebrating, and which trained some of the shipwrights who restored the Flyer.
It’s a small world, and the Western Flyer seems to make it even smaller!
Sunday, June 7
Port Townsend
What a day. ❤️
There is something truly special about the Port Townsend community. This is the place where the Western Flyer was brought back to life, and today it felt like she came home.
From 1:00 to 5:30 PM, more than 500 people stepped aboard the Western Flyer. The line stretched down the dock all afternoon, only briefly slowing down during our presentations.
At 2 PM, I had the privilege of sharing the Western Flyer’s story with around 60 guests, followed by a featured talk on the restoration by Tim Lee and Pete Rust of the Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-Op that drew more than 100 attendees.
The day culminated in a completely sold-out Movie Night, with more than 200 people joining us to watch the Nick Offerman film, and We Simply Liked It, a beautiful reflection by the filmmakers at Soulcraft Allstars on the Western Flyer’s return to the Gulf of California last year.
In between, there was live music by the incredible bands Kozmopolis and Quimper’s Watch, food and drink trucks, an amazing model of the Flyer by Ron Loya, visits from the Petrich family (descendants of the original boat builders), and one of the biggest days of Western Flyer merchandise sales! The entire day was made possible thanks to the incredibly hard work of our crew, the dedication of volunteer Tom Buell, his wife Jamie, Trip, Ron, Eve, Lee, Jane, and the many other volunteers who poured their hearts into making it happen.
I was really moved by the number of people who thanked us for bringing the Western Flyer back to Port Townsend. It was clear how much it meant to this community – which in turn, meant a lot to us.
After nearly a month on the road, this was my final day of the Pacific Northwest expedition. The Western Flyer and crew will continue on to Seattle for one final weekend, but I cannot imagine a more meaningful way to close this chapter.
Port Townsend, thank you for welcoming her home!
Saturday, June 6
Port Townsend
On Saturday, the crew took some much-needed time off.
Later that evening, Captain Paul and I attended the annual fundraiser for the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding. What an incredible organization, filled with some of the coolest, most talented people you’ll ever meet.
What made the evening especially meaningful was realizing just how deeply connected this school is to the Western Flyer’s story. Several of the shipwrights who helped bring her back to life either taught at the school, like Tim Lee, or are alumni, like Lachlan Carlson, who crafted the beautiful skylight over the Western Flyer’s onboard laboratory.
A huge congratulations to Christina Ruben and the entire Northwest School team for a successful event. And a very special thanks to our wonderful hosts, Richard and Lynn Schwarz, for welcoming us so warmly and for all they do to support this remarkable community of craftspeople! Learn more about the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding at this link.
Friday, June 5
Port Townsend
This was a busy day, but one that Kaitlyn Ponce, our Community Outreach Coordinator, declared her favorite of the trip. We welcomed three student groups aboard, beginning with 11 students from the Port Townsend Maritime Academy for a morning cruise, followed by two cruises for students from the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding—25 students on the first trip and 23 on the second. Tim Lee joined a cruise and spotted our first Orca of the trip!
Kaitlyn, a self-proclaimed plankton nerd, was especially excited by the plankton tows, which revealed an incredible array of marine life, including one very tiny baby octopus that was carefully returned to the water later.
After the day’s educational programs, the crew and several shipwrights moved the Western Flyer to the Boat Haven marina near the Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-Op. There, in the very shop where the vessel was painstakingly restored, we gathered for a celebration honoring the craftsmen and women whose skill, dedication, and countless hours helped bring the Western Flyer back to life. Surrounded by boats, tools, and many of the people who had worked on her restoration, it was a fitting opportunity to recognize their contributions and celebrate all that the Western Flyer has become since returning to the water!
Thursday, June 4
Port Townsend
In the morning, 22 third- and fourth-grade students from Salish Coastal Elementary joined us aboard the Western Flyer and on the beach for a hands-on educational program. Activities included a vessel tour, water quality testing, nature journaling, and art projects. As with all of our student programs, each participant received a journal to take home. We hope these journals continue to serve as a place for curiosity, observation, and reflection long after their day aboard the vessel.
In the afternoon, we were delighted to welcome longtime Friends of the Flyer Rom and Pam Welborn aboard to celebrate a very special anniversary. They were joined by friends Nancy and George, as well as Curt and Barbara Petersen, Tom Keffer, and Lee Christie—people who have each played an important role in supporting the Western Flyer’s journey. It was a special afternoon, sitting in the galley among friends, reflecting on the 1940 journey with Steinbeck & Ricketts. As Rom beautifully put it in a follow-up email:
“With Pam beside me, Captain Paul across the table, Ricketts looking over my shoulder, and an almost 100 year old barnacle encrusted WF shot glass in my hand, I could feel myself slipping back in time to the Sea of Cortez voyage, and writing myself into the story. The power of those original words changed my past life for the better, and continues to shape my pathway into the future.”
Wednesday, June 3
Port Townsend
Twenty excited students from Port Townsend High School joined us for an educational cruise through the beautiful Puget Sound. Their curiosity was contagious. Some already knew an incredible amount about plankton and were eager to talk with Rials and Kaitlyn, others peppered Captain Paul with questions about navigating the vessel and learned knots from Jenni, and one aspiring filmmaker was curious about our work with Soulcraft Allstars.
In the evening, we were treated to a special talk in the Western Flyer’s onboard lab by Tim Lee, Pete Rust, and Jeff Galey of the Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-Op about the vessel’s restoration. What a cool experience for all of us—sitting in the very space that was once the old fish hold, listening to the stories of her transformation directly from the shipwrights who brought her back to life.
Having the Shipwrights back on the Flyer was definitely a special occasion that inspired us to bring out the famous barnacle-covered shot glass!
Tuesday, June 2
Port Townsend
20:50 – Sherry – Last night I gave a talk about the Western Flyer at the Port Townsend Marine Science Center – such a very cool space with incredible programs. It’s always inspiring to see what other organizations are doing to connect people with the ocean. Thanks to Hillary, Caroline, and the entire PTMSC crew for the warm welcome. We’re looking forward to sharing the Western Flyer with them for a tour this afternoon.
Earlier in the afternoon, I visited the Port Townsend Shipwrights Coop for the first time in person and met the very talented Tim Lee and Pete Rust. The PTSC was the Western Flyer’s home for many years, and relics and photos from her restoration are scattered throughout the space.
Tim even let me take one of those relics home (see below) – a small piece of the vessel from her “Gemini” years. Many of us believe that the Flyer was not happy being called Gemini – she sank two-and-a-half times under that name! Tim made me promise not to bring it anywhere near the Western Flyer, which felt like very reasonable maritime advice.
Monday, June 1
Port Townsend
17:30 – Rials Christensen (Director of Education & Science) – In partnership with the Northwest Maritime Center, 40 students from their summer camp program visited the Western Flyer today. The group split between nature journaling and tide pooling at the beach, while the other half toured and explored the vessel. A highlight was when the students discovered a large worm weaving its way through the eelgrass, which they captured in their nature journals. The 7th graders brought endless energy, curiosity, and first-week-of-summer excitement – rowdy in the best possible way.
Friday, May 29
Port Townsend
20:30 – Captain Paul – A Homecoming and a Reunion – Yesterday afternoon, the Flyer cruised slowly along the historic Port Townsend waterfront from Point Hudson on the east to Boat Haven Marina. She slid past rows of classic sail and power vessels the port is home for, but none of such a pedigree as her own! Waiting there as she was secured in her slip was a group of craftsmen beaming proudly, as they should, for they were the crew who cast her off four years ago on her historic new journey.
The Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-op crew had accomplished what was seemingly only a dream. Nevertheless, a dream of many and, in particular, one man who not only believes in others’ dreams, but that anything so worthy can and must be done. It could have been a scene from any age at the landing of a boat in port, with calls of “Where have you been, how does she sail, she does look sound – where off to next?” And the dream sails on.
This evening, the Flyer’s crew had the honor of joining the Port Townsend Shipwrights in their spacious shop to celebrate the induction of two new partners to the business. The crew swapped stories with the craftsmen, recognizing a love for perfection and pride of accomplishment. Coop partners Tim Lee and Pete Rust (hear the interview of Pete on radio KLCC) led the reconstruction project.
Thursday, May 28
Port Angeles to Port Townsend!
13:25 – Captain Paul – Reflecting on our stay in Port Angeles – At the stroke of midnight (0000 hours of May 25), the Western Flyer swung around Cape Flattery eastbound with a gale of wind making up astern into the embrace of The Strait of Juan de Fuca, her first taste of Pacific Northwest inside waters since departing southbound Sept. 22, 2023.
By 0900, we were making fast to a float in Port Angeles Boat Haven with the peaks of the Olympics above the town just touching the scudding clouds. Thus began two days of Foundation outreach and education in this beautiful Peninsula city with a rich tradition of industry founded on abundant timber and fish resources.
Our purpose here began at the behest of Rebecca Mostow, former WFF Education Director, now conducting marine science-based classes at Peninsula College. With a few days of slack in the scheduled cruise on to Port Townsend, we had a perfect opportunity for Rebecca to conduct an onboard session for her Fisheries Management class and direct tours of the Flyer for other PC staff and students. We were also able to host a tour for the staff of the PA-based Feiro Marine Life Center.
On our second day in harbor, the weather transitioned into the bluest sky, so welcomed in the damp Northwest! We made the most of a dry morning, touching up around the decks for arrival at Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-op, where the adventure began.
Now deeper into the Salish Sea with adventurous Phil up top at the helm, making a turn around the south side of Protection Island with sharp-eyed Trip and Jenni on marine life camera duty. She just caught a doozy you all will enjoy.
Catch up with you all soon from Port Townsend!
12:47 – Phil Sconce (Mate) – We had a wonderful time in Port Angeles. Left this morning at 10 AM and we have a beautiful day in front of us.
11:00 – Sherry Flumerfelt (Executive Director) – I spoke to Captain Paul this morning. The Western Flyer and crew had a great, somewhat impromptu stop in Port Angeles, with student programs and plenty of visits from curious locals. They left about an hour ago – next stop, Port Townsend!
This is an especially exciting moment for all of us. Port Townsend is where the Western Flyer was reborn. So many shipwrights, craftspeople, donors, and community members poured their hearts and souls into bringing her back to life. The last time she was there, she was beautifully restored but not yet fully functional.
Now she returns as a working research vessel and floating classroom, and we can’t wait to celebrate with the Port Townsend community and show them the results of all their hard work.
If you’re interested in the incredible craftsmanship of the Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-op, check out our YouTube series at this link. You can also join us next weekend on Sunday, June 7th, when the PTSC will give a featured talk on the restoration. Learn More about the June 7th event at the Northwest Maritime Center.
Tuesday, May 26
Port Angeles
15:53 – We’ve ducked into Port Angeles for a few days before heading to Port Townsend. Today, we were happy to welcome back Rebecca Mostow, former Education Director at the Western Flyer Foundation, who visited with a group of students. Photos and captions shared by Captain Paul.
15:02 – Reflections. Shared by Trip.
Monday, May 26
Transit from Newport to Port Townsend (via Port Angeles)
08:00 – Yesterday, the Western Flyer crew worked with Oregon State University scientists to launch an autonomous underwater vehicle off the Washington coast. The glider will spend months underwater collecting data that helps scientists better understand changing ocean conditions and fisheries habitat in the Pacific Northwest. Jack Barth, OSU oceanographer and Western Flyer Foundation board member, wrote a fascinating behind-the-scenes piece about the science, engineering, and purpose behind these gliders: Read the blog here.
01:07 – Captain Paul – Glider release went very well. Entering Strait of Juan de Fuca now.
Sunday, May 24
Transit from Newport to Port Townsend
08:30 – Sherry (ED)– A new limerick in from Kirk Weller, husband of Caroline Petrich (granddaughter of the Western Flyer boat builder, M.A. Petrich).
John Gregg was once reading a book
Inspiring a dream and it took
To save the same boat
That of Steinbeck wrote
Right down to the anchoring hook
Track the Flyer’s current location at this link.
08:04 – Trip Zabrinskie (Crew) – On my maiden voyage on the Flyer I came aboard with what seemed like a million questions. One of the biggest questions I had was: What does it mean to be ‘On Watch’? It did not take long before I found out what those responsibilities entail. Cap’n Paul had decided the best scheduling would be ‘Six on, Six off’ and that I would be partnered with him. Jenni and Phil would be ‘Off’ while we were ‘On’.
The hull of the Flyer has three bulkheads (with water-tight doors) which means we have four separate compartments, each with their own bilge pumps. While the captain is at the helm, my first responsibility is to move from the bow to the stern and visually inspect the pumps and the through-hull fittings in each of those compartments.
In the engine room all of the gauges on all of the many components need to be within the ‘normal’ range, whether they’re measuring the charging rate, the coolant temperature, or the oil and hydraulic pressure. The engine and all the other moving parts need to be running smoothly (“like a Swiss watch” only much louder) without any ‘weird’ noises.
The rest of the time is spent in the pilot house either trading stories (we both have many), talking about current events (but not for long), reading, or enjoying the silence together. Three hours in, another run-through of the engine room. At the sixth hour we turn the helm over to Jen and Phil, grab a bite to eat, and get some shut eye before getting ready to do it all again in five and a half hours.
Saturday, May 23
Transit from Newport to Port Townsend
16:46 – Phil Sconce (Mate) – We are off!
Friday, May 22
Newport, OR
15:30 – Sherry – After a very full and successful week in Newport, the Oregon Coast Aquarium generously hosted our crew for a visit. If you haven’t been, it’s incredible and well worth a stop. Rials was especially excited, since that’s where the movie Free Willy was filmed (one of her childhood favorites!).
Thursday, May 21
Newport, OR
17:35 – Sherry – There’s an awful lot to catch up on. When we’re on expedition, the days are packed from morning to night, and crew’s log updates tend to fall behind. To give you a sense of what the last week aboard the Western Flyer has looked like in Newport, here’s a snapshot of our schedule from just the past several days:
And that only captures the public-facing activities and programs – not the prep, cleanup, loading gear, moving equipment, coordinating programs, or the day-to-day work of running the vessel.
A few highlights from the week:
Sunday was one of those days we won’t soon forget. Over 300 people lined up to tour the Western Flyer throughout the afternoon, and we were truly honored by the patience and enthusiasm of everyone who waited to come aboard. At the Hatfield Marine Science Center, around 130 people attended the daytime screenings of We Simply Liked It, followed by another 80 people for the afternoon presentation, film, and Q&A.
Since then, the days have blurred together in the best possible way: student programs every day, a teacher professional development workshop, tours for supporters and journalists, and lots of shared meals and late-night conversations after long days.
We also partnered with the Pacific Maritime Heritage Center on Wednesday night for an evening focused on fisheries and science. More than 60 people gathered for music, food, the Nick Offerman-narrated short film The Western Flyer, and a panel discussion about cooperative fisheries research featuring scientists and fishermen. The Western Flyer sat just within sight of the theater throughout the evening — a fitting backdrop for conversations about the vessel’s long history of fishing and science. A special thanks to everyone who helped make the evening happen, including the panelists, Waldo Wakefield (who also helped organize and support the evening), Caren Braby, Al Pazar, and Dylan Heppell; the amazing musicians Karen & Steve Johnson, who made the evening so special; Local Ocean for the delicious food; the Lincoln County Historical Society and OSU for their partnership; and the volunteers, attendees, and supporters who contributed to such a meaningful gathering.
sunday, may 17
Newport, OR
07:07 – Trip – Good Morning Newport
saturday, May 16
Newport, OR
Sherry – Today was one of those especially meaningful moments aboard the Western Flyer when we feel very connected to the boat’s past!
We welcomed Caroline Petrich and her husband Kirk aboard for their first-ever visit to the Flyer — which also happened to be Caroline’s birthday! Caroline is the granddaughter of M.A. Petrich Sr. of Western Boat Building Company, the shipyard that built the Western Flyer in 1937.
After a tour of the boat, we hung out in the galley, swapping stories and laughter, and Caroline had a celebratory shot (or two) out of the barnacle-covered shot glass dating back to the 1930s that only comes out for special occasions. Her grandfather, reportedly not much of a drinker, may not have approved, but Steinbeck and Ricketts almost certainly would have.
We also thoroughly enjoyed the delicious brownies they brought for the crew (which definitely gave new meaning to the phrase “brownie points” – they earned theirs). Before leaving, Kirk wrote the poem copied below (well done, Kirk).
Much like when Leopoldo Perpuli visited the boat in Puerto Escondido, visits like these are such a tangible connection to the Flyer’s past, and something we truly love!
If you haven’t read Caroline’s reflection on her grandfather and the building of the Western Flyer, it’s wonderful:
Reflections on My Grandfather, M.A. Petrich Sr., Builder of the Western Flyer
A Poem – by Kirk Weller
There once was a writer named John
Who took a boat hither and yon.
With good friends and drink,
They never did sink,
And finally brought us all along.
Captain Paul – Sharing The River For Science – On Saturday, the Flyer, now well situated and welcomed in Newport, sailed on up the Yaquina Estuary with Professor Jack Barth’s OSU Honors class under the Marine Studies Initiative, for an introductory Oceanography session. On a similar mission, the HMSC R/V Elakha was sharing the estuary with a class deploying water sampling equipment. The Elakha, seen here in a rare spot of sunshine on that blustery day, is a sturdy 54-foot-long aluminum research vessel built by Rozema for river and coastal operations.
Friday, May 15
Newport, OR
12:09 – Jack Barth (Board Member and Professor of Oceanography at OSU) – If you’ve toured the Western Flyer’s onboard laboratory, you may remember seeing the vessel’s flow-through system, pictured here. As the ship travels, the system continuously pumps seawater through a series of scientific sensors, giving us a real-time picture of changing water conditions.
The plots below are a great example of the kinds of data it collects. While transiting Coos Bay in Oregon on May 12, the system captured changing temperature, salinity, and chlorophyll levels as cold, salty Pacific water mixed with warmer, fresher river water flowing from inland.
The colored track follows the Flyer’s route through the estuary. The top panel shows temperature, the middle shows salinity, and the bottom shows chlorophyll fluorescence, an indicator of phytoplankton, the microscopic marine plants that form the foundation of the ocean food web.
What is most striking is the chlorophyll data. Instead of being evenly distributed throughout the estuary, the highest concentrations appeared near the transition zone between ocean and river water. Boundaries like this can create especially productive conditions as currents and mixing concentrate nutrients and microscopic life.
In just a few miles, the water shifted from open ocean to river mouth, and the biology shifted with it.
Wednesday, May 13
Headed to Newport, OR
From Captain Paul
20:56 – We’re in – all good!
17:47 – With wind and current we were on a fast track to destination arriving before enough depth in the marina to reach our slip. Holding off shore for awhile, but conditions are rough, so will go on in by 7 and cruise the harbor for an hour or so.
MONDAY, MAY 11
Coos Bay, Oregon
13:12 – Sherry – While the crew is busy leading another full day of student programs, I’m on a plane heading home for a few days after a great week in Charleston and Coos Bay.
Saturday’s tours during the Charleston Marine Life Center’s 10th Anniversary celebration were busy from start to finish. We estimate close to 300 people came aboard the Flyer that afternoon. Between the Western Flyer, OIMB’s Megalopa, and the CMLC open house, the waterfront was buzzing. And if you have never visited the CMLC, you should. What a great little marine education center!
On Sunday, we wrapped up the weekend with a short cruise over to Coos Bay (home of the late Steve Prefontaine), followed by more tours (2-4 pm) and then a special evening at the Egyptian Theatre with Dr. Craig Young, former director of OIMB, talking about marine science, curiosity, Steinbeck, and Ricketts (apparently, every dentist he’s ever met secretly wished they were a marine biologist- we should all test this with our own dentists). We also shared the Flyer’s story and screened We Simply Liked It to a crowd of more than 80 people.
A huge thanks to Oregon Sea Grant, Charleston Marine Life Center, OIMB, the Port of Coos Bay, South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve, 7 Devils Brewery, the Egyptian Theater, and all of the amazing locals who made us feel so welcome. These are exactly the kinds of communities and partnerships we hoped to connect with by bringing the Flyer north.
p.s. scroll down to Wednesday, May 6. I somehow forgot to post a great little update from Trip!
FRIDAY, May 8
Charleston, Oregon
12:19 – Sherry – We’ve had North Bend high school students on board all morning. It’s always interesting to see what draws different groups to the Western Flyer story. This time, one of the teachers is a huge Steinbeck fan, so students came in already excited about the boat’s history and legacy. Another group was especially into the science side of things, asking lots of questions, curious about the ROV and science instruments.
Thursday, May 7
Charleston, Oregon
19:00 – Captain Paul – Tonight we set the table with our first spring seafood bash (the Kings are running!) and gathered for a good gab around the galley table with Executive Director Sherry holding court!
18:25 – Sherry – Tied up alongside the local fishing fleet, it felt appropriate to have a seafood feast tonight. Amy and Trish from the Charleston Marine Life Center brought over delicious smoked salmon and teriyaki steelhead that disappeared almost immediately. Paul added to the spread with fresh salmon, rockfish, smoked albacore, and the largest spot prawns any of us had ever seen.
17:30 – Rials – Today was our first official day of student programs, and the boat was full all day. We started with two groups of high school students from Marshfield High School in partnership with the Charleston Marine Life Center. Students toured the vessel, explored plankton under microscopes, tested water quality, and talked about the recent grey whale strandings along the Oregon coast and what those events may reveal about changing ocean conditions.
In the afternoon, students from the Confederated Tribes of Coos, Lower Umpqua, and Siuslaw Indians (CTCLUSI) after-school program came aboard for tours plus art and science activities. The best moment of the day came just as the visit was wrapping up, when a harbor seal pup and its mom surfaced alongside the dock to hang out with the kids!
16:40 – Sherry Flumerfelt – Rials (Education Manager) and I flew in yesterday to join the crew. They all seem happy, and the Flyer looks great. We’re staying in cottages right across from the Charleston Marine Life Center. It’s great to be back in the Pacific Northwest!
WEDNESDAY, MAY 6
Charleston, Oregon
19:27 – Trip – Keeping a boat in ‘shipshape’ condition entails more than keeping dirty dishes out of the sink and making up your bunk before your 2nd cup of coffee.
For the Western Flyer, the almost daily wipe-down routine is determined by how much dew and seagull poo has found its way onto the flat surfaces the previous night. But keeping the deck clean and maintained is a whole different story.
When in port it’s sprayed down and swabbed with fresh water pretty much every day, while it’s scrubbed with soap roughly 3 times a week.
When underway in open water it’s a fools errand keeping spray off the boat. However, we have a procedure for cleaning and preserving the Flyer’s vertical grain fir deck. It is ‘pickled’ by a hard scrub with sea water. The salt is absorbed into the wood and acts like a preservative while maintaining a patina of age. Now I’m off to make up my bunk.
Tuesday, May 5
Transit between Brookings and Charleston, OR
17:00 – Captain Paul – Arrived in scenic Charleston Harbor at 1830 in lingering late afternoon sun with the busy fleet of shrimpers running in and out delivering their catch. We were hospitably greeted by Amy of the Oregon Institute of Marine Biology and Trish of the Charleston Marine Life Center. Gathering in the Flyer’s galley we got acqainted and learned the local lore and all looking forward to the collaboration ahead!
13:00- Captain Paul – 7 nautical miles SW of Cape Blanco and 6 hours out of Charleston – 12 knots of wind making up out of the WNW ruffling the water on a long swell – fine traveling! The sea is alive as currents swirl on the water surface. Jenni’s list now includes several Black Footed Albatross, a big Mola Mola, 20-30 scattered Humpbacks, a Tufted Puffin (identified by sharp eyed Phil), three sharks (1+white) and numerous assorted sea birds 🦈
12:34 – Phil Sconce – We are about 10 miles offshore, due West of Humbug Mountain, just South of Cape Blanco. In the last half an hour, we’ve seen 20-30 humpback whales, three great white sharks, a giant Mola Mola, and countless sea birds!
11:34 – Phil Sconce – Beautiful day out here. Calm and glassy.
10:15 – Photos shared by Phil Sconce
0700 – Captain Paul – Cinco de Mayo – Adios Brookings Harbor! Farewell, fine friends who came aboard paying homage to the Western Flyer, John Steinbeck, and Ed Ricketts. Arriving a week back to that perfect port seeking shelter from the storm, and making good use of it to spruce up the Flyer for the weeks of celebrations ahead. Cleared the jetties and threading through the fishermen out early in small boats seeking bottomfish and salmon we swung northbound up the misty coast for Charleston, our first destination on the 2026 Pacific Northest Tour. Stay tuned for all the fun as we join the festivities of The Charleston Marine Life Center’s 10th Anniversary Open House!
Sunday, May 3
Brookings, OR
09:30– Captain Paul – Making good progress getting the Flyer shaped up for the weeks ahead. Crew doing great in a good atmosphere for team development. I declared today “Rope Yarn Sunday” so everyone can tend to personal maintenance. Last night we had the first old movie night in the lab. Took in “The Boys in The Boat” to get into the Seattle spirit. We are holding our run to Coos Bay for Tuesday, as a lingering NW swell still is prevalent, also finish a few more maintenance jobs in progress.
Friday, may 1
Brookings, OR
19:18 – Trip Zabriskie – A woman yelled down from the parking lot above the dock in Brookings while the crew was working on their chores on the deck. She said, “Hey Western Flyer, I’ve been waiting seven years to see this boat”. Trip yelled back, “then hopefully you won’t mind waiting another couple of hours till 2 o’clock so we can finish up our chores then.” She responded, “We’ll see you then.”
Thursday, april 30
Brookings, OR
19:18 – Trip Zabriskie – On the Flyer’s southbound voyage in 2023, Cap’n Paul made friends with Harlan, a retired log truck driver living in Brookings. He has visited us several times on our return and insisted on taking us out to dinner at the newest dining spot in Brookings, named Twisted. The new proprietor, Angela, and the barkeeps, Colleen & Sam, were gracious and fed us well, which in turn led to a good night’s sleep.
We were up early and on deck after a hearty breakfast of steel-cut oats, raisins, walnuts, and a fried egg on top for the captain and me, while Jenni and Phil opted for scrambled eggs with a healthy portion of goat cheese. Phil and Jenni went off to the hardware store with the dock cart while Cap’n and I worked over the deck and gear.
Jenni and Phil were working on the seawater flow-through all afternoon as Paul and I welcomed 19 enthusiastic guests on board for tours. It was a productive day, and I learned something new from Cap’n Paul: you can revive wilted celery by trimming the end and sticking it in cold water. So I was inspired to make the last of the shredded chicken into salad for lunch for us all . Yum!
Tuesday, April 28
Tucked into Brookings, OR, for a few days
From Trip, 19:29
Trip to the rest of the crew: “I’m going to the market up the street so I can pick up some milk for Paul and me. They close at five, so I’ve only got 20 minutes. I’ll be back.”
Trip to the attendant behind the counter: Are you hiding the milk someplace? I don’t see any.
Attendant: Oh I’m sorry honey, we don’t sell milk here.
Trip: Darn, we need some for breakfast in the morning. I’m on a boat down by the gas dock.
Attendant: Oh, you are? What’s the name of the boat?
Trip: The Western Flyer.
Attendant: That must be a pretty special boat. I’ve had three different customers come in today and ask me, “Where’s the Western Flyer?” And the only place to get some milk is up at McKays; it’s about a mile and a half up the hill.
Trip: That would be a bit of a walk.
Attendant: Well, it’s a short drive.
Trip: I don’t have a car; I’m on the boat.
Attendant: Here’s my keys; it’s the silver Mazda out front. Just be back by five; that’s when I get off work.
Trip: What, that’s only five minutes from now!
Attendant: I’m just kidding, honey. I’ll be here. But if you crash it, please make sure you total it.
I thanked her profusely and headed back down to the dock. A crabber nearby chatted me up and complimented the Flyer. I had to share my recent experience, and ended by saying, “only in Brookings”.
He responded: No, my friend, there’s good people everywhere.
Monday, April 27
Continued the journey toward Coos Bay, crossing into Oregon and pausing in Brookings to wait out the weather.
18:07 – Reflections sent in by our newest crew member, Trip Zabriskie (more on Trip soon)
A Family of Flyers
Readying the Flyer for our PNW passage was quite an achievement. The clam shack was a beehive of activity with Sherry and her gang coordinating volunteers, reaching out to educational partners to finalize plans, nailing down schedules, and reaching out to other groups that might be interested in hosting and joining the excitement.
Cap’n Paul was delving into his vast network of contacts up the coast to secure moorage and call-in favors to get us the most prominent and visible spot on the docks.
Jenni had taken apart the ROV and was cleaning it out with Q-tips, calibrating the science equipment that she plunges to the depths of the ocean, and tweaking the programs that gather and synthesize raw data.
Phil was up to his elbows in grease as he changed out water pumps, rewired fuse blocks, and somehow wrestled a freezer chest down the companion way and into the ROV room so we could safely store all the homemade food our friends and family donated to the cause.
For me, I was asked to sand, scuff, and repaint a majority of the high gloss, black epoxy-based paint that is used on all the cap rails and other trim-work throughout the boat. George, another dedicated volunteer, was tasked with the inevitable chore of scuffing and applying countless coats of varnish to the bright work. Thank You, George.
But the hardest workers of all were unseen, at least by me. It is John the founder of the Western Flyer Foundation, and our board president Tom (and the rest of the board), and You, the countless donors who have made this voyage possible. This was truly an All-Hands-On-Deck effort that will touch countless lives and pay us back tenfold. Thanks to All of Us. This Family of Flyers
11:02 – Phil sent these photos after arriving safely in Brookings.
SUNDAY, APRIL 26
Continued north offshore, with building swell and changing conditions shaping the route.
Jenni Johnson
18:16 – We are starting to round Cape Mendocino. Phil and I just took over the watch from Capt. Paul and Trip. Fueling up on stir fry and plums as we slowly hobby horse our way north.
Captain Paul
15:15 – Life out here is inspiring; feeling the legacy!
13:48 – Last evening in the fading daylight, as we sailed north outside the San Francisco Bay entrance and Farallon Islands, the sea surface was alive with predators and prey. Humpback Whales viciously slapping the surface with pectoral fins and tails, while all manner of sea birds shared in the feast.
Dolphins splashed and circled wildly, and a massive Humpback Whale matched our pace 50 meters out, perhaps wondering if our shiny new black hull paint suggested we were some kindred sea mammal.
As the last vestige of daylight penetrated the sea surface, Trip was at the rail outside the starboard wheelhouse door. Staring down into the water, he was startled to see a large set of open jaws lined with glistening white teeth seemingly suspended just below the surface. As he watched from the Western Flyer deck, the creature closed its jaws and descended into the dark depths below. Maybe as John Steinbeck surmised in The Log From The Sea of Cortez, “Sparky and Tiny do not question the Old Man of The Sea”, and now neither does Trip” for they have looked at him.”
12:41 – At noon on our second day of the run the sky broke overhead, the sea no longer gray now bright blue with whitecaps streaming off the wave crests – and a lone Black-Footed Albatross pacing us in long soaring sweeps of the sea on either side.
12:28 – [Hows the weather looking at Cape Mendocino?]
I haven’t been on the computer. Tom sent me some info @ 0400: winds moderate around Mendocino, but steep seas to 8 ft about what we have now. We will be there at 6:00 pm. It gets worse then, so our timing is good!
Jenni is doing well, logging an observed 15 whales and small pod of Pacific White Sided Dolphins at 0815.
11:40 – We’ve been hanging on through watch and checks. No sit down meals or much eating at all. Gray sea and sky. But around 0500 the nearly full moon lit the seascape for an hour before setting!
08:58 – Phil Sconce – Good morning! Short steep seas all last night and this morning. However, it has been beautiful. Lots of birds, whales, and a small pod of dolphins. Making good time.
06:42 – Captain Paul – Slowed down during the night by seas. Doing better since daylight.
Saturday, April 25
Departed Moss Landing and began the northbound journey along the California coast.
14:26 – Captain Paul – That was a nice send-off from the fuel float! I think the Flyer took to the seas with extra vigor after being waved off by Carol Stenbeck’s alter ego. It was a real thrill to bend our course northward and begin the return voyage to the Pacific Northwest. The swell and cool misty drizzle we drive into leave no doubt as to our destination! We are edging offshore into deep waters about 12 miles west of Point Ano Nuevo and will shape our course passing west of the San Francisco Bay entrance and the Farallon Islands this evening.
09:24 – Sherry Flumerfelt – The crew and the Western Flyer have just taken off on our second expedition, this time to the Pacific Northwest. I was feeling a little nostalgic sending them off – sad to see them go, even though I’ll be meeting them in Oregon in ten days. It reminded me, once again, of the passage in The Log from the Sea of Cortez as the Flyer was leaving Monterey:
The moment or hour of leave-taking is one of the pleasantest times in human experience, for it has in it a warm sadness without loss. People who don’t ordinarily like you very well are overcome with affection at leave-taking. We said good-by again and again and still could not bring ourselves to cast off the lines and start the engines. It would be good to live in a perpetual state of leave-taking, never to go nor to stay, but to remain suspended in that golden emotion of love and longing; to be missed without being gone; to be loved without satiety. How beautiful one is and how desirable; for in a few moments one will have ceased to exist.
The book also describes bringing “truckloads of food.” As you can see from the photos below, our crew is not wanting for food, thanks to the generosity of our friends Alex Castanos, Amy and Michael Ponce, and Pat Webster (with sourdough straight out of the oven). They also came by Moss Landing to send us off. We are deeply grateful!
Wishing our crew fair winds and following seas.
